Engine and Gearbox Mounts

I chose to make my own mounts top pick up from the original A series points on the body.  This worked well on the driver’s side where the other mount was joined to the tapped holes that used to hold the power steering pump on.

The mount goes round the oil dipstick tube in the same way as the power steering pump did.

The passenger side mount proved to be impossible to mount to the original A series point on the side of the suspension turret because the alternator is there.  Instead, the original rubber block is used between the heavily reinforced ‘chassis rail’ and some of the spare tappings in the side of the engine.  The tappings used don’t seem to be used in the Rover and are standard 10mm metric thread.

The yellow bit of metal is a piece of the 65mm box section (that was used to reinforce the gearbox crossmember) with the bottom cut off it.  This hammered onto the rail and is welded on.  The bolts go all the way through and use the cut off bottom bit as a spreader plate (also welded on).

The engine mounts are situated quite high up the sides of the engine; this seems to result in little to no engine movement under load or at any point, at least, it doesn’t catch, and it is extremely close at some points!

The gearbox mount doubles as both a mount and a strengthening piece to restore strength lost by removing the gearbox crossmember.  It uses a Capri rubber mount in the frame shown below:

The rubber goes in the square hole in the lower of the above picture; the upper gap is for the main body of the gearbox.  The holes bolt up through the strengthened pieces of remaining crossmember and the floor next to the transmission tunnel.

Alternator mount

The engine at the front has to fit between the suspension pillars that hold the dampers, and as such the original position of the alternator is no good.  The alternator sits too far out from the engine and catches on the old engine mount place enough to make adjustment to tighten the belt impossible.  This is fixed by grinding away the mount so that the alternator can fit closer to the engine.  The actual mount is thinned out to about 2mm thick (the back is webbed – so that’s 2mm thick on the flats between the webs) and the bottom mount bolt is countersunk in (I used a Allen headed bolt to get maximum clearance).   The alternator now fits in the gap with room for adjustment, although the belt will have to be shorter than the original Rover one.

To enable adjustment of the alternator (because the flat poly-V belts need a much higher tension than a standard V belt) there’s a hole drilled through the alternator mounting lug at right angles to the mounting bolt.  This hole is tapped, and a long bolt put through that allows the belt to be tightened with a screwdriver through the hole in the suspension turret or a fingertip operated 10mm spanner.